SIZING A GLOVE

The sizing guide is a guide to give you an idea on the average size of a glove a player of a certain age is uses. It is broken down into age groups and into positions of either infield or outfield. The chart is as follows below:

Usually, infielders are going to use smaller gloves so they can control them better because their reaction time is much less than that of an outfielder. Infielder’s gloves are also smaller so the fielder can transfer the ball out of the pocket faster. This will enable them to throw out runners more efficiently. The outfielder’s gloves are usually larger with a deeper pocket because they are running down and chasing fly balls. Having a larger mitt helps them cut down a little distance off the ball.

SELECTING A GLOVE

When selecting a glove there are a few considerations you must take into account. One of the most important things to consider is choosing a glove for the right position you will be playing. The gloves for each specific position have certain attributes to help the player at his or her position.

FIRST BASEMEN GLOVES:

Some say that the first glove worn by a baseball player was by catcher Doug Allison of the Cincinnati Red Stockings in 1870. It is said that he wore the glove because of an injured left hand. According to A.G. Spalding the first glove he ever saw on a player was worn by Charles C. Waite, in Boston, in 1875. Waite was playing first base and when asked by Spalding he said “He was a bit ashamed to wear it, but had it on to save his hand. He also admitted that he had chosen a color as inconspicuous as possible (flesh color as it was said), because he didn’t care to attract attention.” Spalding, who became the owner of A.G.

Spalding and Bros., did not wear a glove until 1877. The glove Spalding wore was made from black leather and did draw attention to it. Since Spalding had made a name for himself the attention was more out of pity than humor. By the mid 1890’s, gloves were becoming not only more popular but also the new standard.

First baseman wearing gloves became a standard in the late 1890’s. As the first base position was ever evolving, the glove needed to evolve with them. First base mitts, as we know today, were invented in 1941. These early first base mitts had the five finger stalls with padding and then locked together with lacing between the thumb and index finger. Although it was very primitive in make-up, this style was very effective for the time it was used in.

Today the first base mitts offer many different types of leather combinations from cowhide to kangaroo. Also there are options with the color of your glove to the different features that your glove offers. Some of the features today that you see are open and closed backs, single post or double post webs, and modified or closed webs. The first base mitt has been ever so important to the evolving of The National Past Time.

CATCHERS MITTS:

The catcher’s position has always been the most physically demanding position to play in baseball. The need for improving equipment has always been increasing to add more protection and comfort. A catcher’s mitt for people who play the position is a “must have”, because no other glove can give them the kind of support, protection, durability and performance needed.

Baseball gloves in general became of widespread use by the 1870’s. The first person to start producing and marketing ballgloves was Albert Spalding, who started his own mail-order sporting goods business. His mitts were basically a fingerless glove with padding in the palm. In the beginning, most of his business came from catchers who wanted more padding and protection for their mitts. By 1890, an ex-catcher by the name of Harry Decker had patented his very own “Decker Safety Catcher’s Mitt”, which was basically a flat cushion with straps to hold it onto the hand specifically designed for catchers. These were just basic designs that would eventually lead to better and more sophisticated designs.

Over the years catchers mitts have added not only padding, but have developed more of a basket pocket, similar to what we have today. Catcher’s mitts now also have an oval shaped pocket and more padding while having more flexibility. Today’s gloves have been developed using the latest technology and are much stronger and durable.

When selecting a baseball catchers mitt there are several things you need to keep in mind in order for you to select the right mitt. First, mitts come in different sizes, of course there are youth and adult sizes, but also decide what circumference you be looking for. Usually youth sizes will have circumferences 31 inches or less and adult mitts will have circumferences 32 inches or greater. All of today’s baseball catcher’s mitts have a closed web. There is also the choice of an open back mitt which has an opening on the back of it right above the wrist, or there is a closed back which will have a finger hole for the index finger to be placed on the back side of the glove for more support. A few more factors to consider when choosing a catchers mitt are color and brand preference.

INFIELD GLOVES:

In the very first years of baseball back in the 1860’s and 1870’s gloves were seen as unmanly. Then as the game picked up popularity and players became better and hit the ball harder gloves became more common and needed for protection. The first infielder’s gloves were actually a pair of gloves. They were leather gloves worn on each hand with the fingers cut off. By 1900, people started to wear only one glove on their nonthrowing hand with more padding and a larger pocket. This was the beginning of the basic concept of the gloves we have today.

As time has gone by many improvements have taken place with gloves, especially infielder’s mitts. With infielders having such little time to react having a good glove improves their play greatly. The most important improvement was in 1920, when a web was designed in between the thumb and the finger stalls. This gave the gloves a larger and deeper pocket.

In order to be sure to select the proper glove for your position follow a few guidelines that may help. Pitchers for instance want a glove that has a solid web, this is because the solid web will hide their fingers as they adjust their grip on the ball for the next pitch. As for the size of the glove for pitchers it is up to personal preference.

Middle infielders usually prefer to have a smaller mitt so they can transfer the ball out of the glove to their hand as quickly as possible. Open web gloves are also preferred by middle infielders such as an I-web or H-Web styles. These web styles basically look as their names state, for example the I-web is shaped as an “I” with openings around it so the ball can be picked out of the glove easier. Another style of web is the Trapeez web, which in theory adds a sixth finger in the pocket between the thumb and the the fingers. Ususally second basemen wear the smallest gloves because they are lighter weight. Most second basemen use an 11 to an 11.5 inch mitt, while shortstops will usually use an 11.5 to an 11.75 inch mitt.

Third basemen on the other hand will ofter wear a bit larger glove around 12 to 12.5 inches long because they are the closest fielder to home plate. Balls times hit at third base are hit very hard and come in fast. Plus, a longer glove allows them to pick up balls hit down the foul line easier, because of the the longer reach of the glove. Some other factors that can play a role in deciding which glove to choose is a brand preference or the color of the glove.

OUTFIELD GLOVES:

When gloves first became popular among those who played organized baseball in the last part of the 1890’s gloves were not position specific. Gloves were made from old mittens or custom made from horsehide with extra padding added to both designs. As hitters began to hit harder and harder more and more padded designs became available. In 1920 when Bill Doak of the Saint Louis Cardinals approached Rawlings with his idea of lacing a web between the index finger and thumb to create a more natural pocket. This idea revolutionized the way gloves were made. This pocket design is what is still used today on all fielder gloves. It is actually almost like an extra finger, All Star Ozzie Smith who used this design once said “six fingers are better than five.”

Outfielders generally prefer a closed web style. Outfield gloves tend to be larger in design than infielder models in terms of the length of the finger stalls. Larger gloves allow outfielders to be able to cover more ground. Also, outfielders are looking to make a catch while infielders, who like smaller gloves, need to retrieve and release the ball as quickly as possible. Today many different models and sizes are available for outfielders. The most common sizes are from twelve inches and above depending on personal preference.

When selecting an outfielder’s model you first need to select the size that best fits your personal needs. The next thing you need to think about is web style that you would like, whether you would like an open web or a closed web. The third step would be to choose if you have a preference for an open back or a closed back. Your next decision would be to see if you have a brand preference. Finally you would make the purchase that best fits your specific needs. Gloves have changed over time and will continue to change for the better of the game.

WEBBINGS OF A GLOVE:

Players also choose gloves based on the webbing. There are two types of webbing, closed and open. A pitcher usually is going to prefer the closed webbing to help them hide the ball from the hitter. Outfielders and third basemen also like closed webbing for the extra support. Middle infielders are going to want an open web so they can get the ball out of their glove faster.

POCKETS OF A GLOVE:

The pocket is also a factor in choosing a glove. The size of the pocket will depend on the position you play. Shallow pockets are for middle infielders so they can quickly grab the ball and throw. Deeper pockets help outfielders bring in fly balls. Softball players also need a bigger pocket for the larger size ball that is used.

BACKS OF A GLOVE:

A player can choose an open or closed back glove. This is the part of the glove behind your wrist. The open back leaves a space open across the back by your wrist. It is really your personal preference, but some backs fit certain positions better. Middle infielders like an open back for the flexibility. Outfielders like a closed back and a finger hole for the extra support.

WRIST ASDJUSTMENT OF A GLOVE:

Some gloves come with a wrist adjustment. The wrist adjustment keeps the glove snug to your hand. An example is a Velcro strap that offers the convenience of pulling and adjusting to your comfort level. Another wrist adjustment would be a D-ring fastener that allows you to pull on the lacing and make the glove tighter.

BREAKING IN A GLOVE

The following is how glove manufactures recommend breaking in your new glove.

The best way to break in a glove is to use specially designed glove oil. Glove oil keeps the leather “alive” while providing a softening condition and minimizing weight gain. Apply a small amount of glove oil to a sponge or cloth, then use the sponge or cloth to apply the oil to the areas of the glove that are currently firm. Start with the palm, the break point of the glove and then web. Then use the glove oil on all other parts of the glove including the entire inside to help moisturize and protect the glove. Work the glove oil into the leather evenly. Do not apply the glove oil directly to the glove, as it will be too concentrated at the point of application. Also, make sure that the laces get oiled so they can stay moisturized so they will not dry and begin to crack. Otherwise, the webbing of the glove will come loose. Remember that leather is skin and leather experts tell us not to treat glove leather any differently than you would your own skin. Therefore prolonged harsh temperatures (oven, microwave) excessive water soaking, especially use of hot water, abrasives, the salt and acids produced from perspiration and excessive dryness all or individually can be harmful to the glove leather. You may also use this method and substitute glove oil for shaving cream with lanolin.

IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER:

• Excessive glove conditioner/oil will damage and shorten the life of a new glove.
• Allow the glove oil to absorb into the leather for 24 hours in a warm area, temperature between 70-90 degrees.
• Play catch daily until the glove is ready for game play.
• Use the glove oil sparingly, use can always add more.
• At the end of the season, apply glove oil very lightly to keep your glove from becoming brittle.
• Store your glove in a dry place with a ball in the pocket to maintain shape.
• Never put your glove in an oven or microwave, the heat can damage the fibers of the leather.
• Do not use neat’s-foot oil, linseed oil or silicon-type spray, these tend to close the pores of the leather, causing it to dry, harden and become heavy.
• In general, there is no short cut to breaking-in a glove, playing catch remains the best way.
• Do not apply the glove oil directly to the glove, as it will be too concentrated at the point of application, apply to a cloth first.
• Water will cause the leather to eventually dry out, crack and the laces to become brittle.
• A glove that is troublesome breaking in, usually means that the leather is very high quality.
• Pummeling a new glove speeds up break in, but the glove will be better served if this extra abuse is avoided.

ANOTHER METHOD:

A professional ball player will sometimes break in a glove in a way that will contradict what glove manufactures recommend. This method is not endorsed by glove manufactures, because it will shorten the life of your glove. Professional ball players usually receive their gloves free of charge, so they are not as interested in longevity, as a quick break-in period. We understand that some players who are not professionals also weigh a real quick break-in more important that longevity of the glove, so we will let you know how many professional ball players break in a glove.

First, they submerge their glove in a bucket of very hot water for 1-2 minutes. Then, they will put a baseball or two in the pocket, of the glove and tie the glove up tightly with a sock, large rubber bands or string forming the pocket around the ball. One baseball in the pocket is usually for infielders, and two baseballs are usually for outfielders. The two baseballs create a bigger pocket. Directly from there, with the baseball(s) still in the pocket, they will put their glove in the clothes dryer on hot to dry the glove. The clothes dryer helps beat up the glove while tumbling, which adds to the quicker break-in.

Next, they will untie the glove and work in shaving cream with lanolin, or glove oil. If you are using shaving cream, you can apply it with your bare hand. When using glove oil, apply to a sponge or cloth, then use the sponge or cloth to apply the oil to the areas of the glove that are currently firm. Start with the palm, the break point of the glove and then web. Then use the glove oil on all other parts of the glove including the entire inside to help moisturize and protect the glove. Work the glove oil or shaving cream into the leather evenly. At this point it is time to start pummeling the glove. You can use the barrel of a bat to do this. Pummel the glove at the break points to loosen it up even more. This will speed up the process, but you will still have to play a lot of catch and work the glove to get it broken in all the way. Remember, this method will shorten the life of your glove.

BATTING DRILLS & EXERCISES

Review the fundamentals of hitting and encourage proper form at all times!

Drill #1: Top-Hand Drill (Hit-N-Stik Drill)

The top hand on the grip is the hand that takes the bat to the ball. It is important to develop strength and skill with this hand. To do this we do a one-handed isolation drill. The batter uses just the top hand. Gripping the bat at the top of the grip and using the bat like a tomahawk, the batter tries to get over the top of the ball and hit it into the ground. The batter has a coach or player soft toss the ball above the waist. The batter hits the ball from the top and drives its straight into the ground. Suggested - 25 Swings - 3 Times a week.

Drill #2: Power Hand Drill (Hit-N-Stik Drill)

A hitters power comes from the bottom or pull hand. This drill develops bottom hand strength. Have batter, using only one arm at a time, take stance, inward turn, stride and full cut at balls off of a tee. Emphasize "staying back" on the ball. Batter will need to choke up a lot, and initially need to place the unused hand under the armpit of the swinging arm for additional support. Take about 20 cuts at a time with each arm, making sure to keep the barrel higher than the hands, and follow through. At first, most players will find their top arm to be stronger; therefore, requiring more reps with the bottom arm. The objective is to reduce the gap between the ability of each arm, ideally becoming equally adept with both. (Many players suffer from a weak lead hand!) You can soft toss to older players.

Drill #3: Multiple Location Contact Drill (Hit-N-Stik Drill)

The hitter is given three pitch locations to practice hitting; inside, away and middle. On the inside location, the batter must learn to involve the hips and turn on the pitch, pulling it. On the middle pitch the batter hits the ball dead up the middle. On the away pitch, the batter makes sure to take the ball to the opposite field. The coach may want to put spots on the ground showing where the batter attacks each pitch location. The inside pitch is attacked on a spot located in front of the plate. The middle pitch is attacked on a spot located just behind the instep of the hitters front foot. The away strike is attacked on a spot located just inside of the hitters back foot. Suggested - 20 At Each Location - 3 Times Weekly.

Drill #4: Colored Ball Soft Toss (need two different colored balls)

The hitter learns to concentrate and keep the weight back. The coach tosses the two balls at different heights. The coach calls the color to hit after the balls are released. The hitter hits the called ball into the fence or screen. This drill can be done from different locations. The coach should also fake toss and change the release points as well as vary the speed of the balls.

VARIATIONS:

1. Once you've mastered the first version of this drill, try three balls. Or allow your partner to call out colors that aren't being tossed.
2. You might even try to write numbers on the ball with a magic marker -- simply have your partner call out the number to hit, just like you did with colors.
3. Instead of coloring the balls, simply use regular baseballs and have the tosser call out "high" or "low." By switching between the high and low ball, the hitter learns to adjust to high pitches when he was expecting a low pitch and vice versa.

Drill #5: Long Toss BP

One of the best misconceptions in baseball is that to benefit from batting practice the pitcher must be at regular distance and throw game speed. Much more can be accomplished when the pitcher throws from half the regular distance. At this distance the pitcher has better control and more work is accomplished. The ball is thrown at a steady appropriate speed. The speed at this distance should make the batter develop a quicker bat and great skill. The coach should never do this drill without a L-screen. This drill can also be performed with regular or golf-ball sized wiffles.

Drill #6: Bring-By Drill

The purpose of this drill is the increase of bat speed. The batter hits a ball that is coming from his back side going toward the pitcher. The hitter must see the ball and catch-up with it before it gets by him. The speed of the ball is increased to challenge the hitter more and more.

Drill #7: HitnStik Closed Eye Drill (Hit-N-Stik Drill)

This is one of my favorite drills. I developed this drill in the late 80s. The hitter assumes a comfortable and correct stance each time. Then the hitter closes the eyes. The coach or stik holder will change the strike height and location each time. A verbal command is given, the hitter opens the eyes and hits the ball correctly wherever it is located. The batter must use the correct swing to hit inside, middle, and away pitches. The holder will also locate the ball out of the strike zone. Any ball above the hands or on the ground is a ball and should not be hit. Suggested - 15 Swings - 3 Times a week.

Drill #8: Step in Drill (Hit-N-Stik Drill)

One of the most common faults with young hitters is stepping out. This drill is used to combat that bad habit. The hitter sets up to start the drill one step behind where he should be when he hits the ball. The hitter will step toward the plate with the back foot first then the front foot. When the front foot hits the ground the batter will attack the ball. There should be no hesitation. Step, step, HIT! The hitter will develop the habit of stepping into the ball when he attacks it. His momentum is going toward the plate during this drill so it is very difficult for the hitter to step out.

Drill #9: Bunt Pepper

This is a great drill to develop bunting skills. The drill involves 5 players in each group. The players may use the pivot or square around bunt technique. The batter must bunt the ball to each of the four fielders. The hitter bunts one to each and then takes the left fielders (facing the batter) place. The right fielder comes to bat and the other move over one place. The coach should emphasize that the batters bunt the ball softly to the fielders. The bat should be keep at a 45 degree angle and the batter should change height by bending the knees. Fielders should catch the ground ball, bare-handed, out front, then square the feet around and throw the next strike to the hitter. This makes a great warm-up drill for the beginning of practice. Defensive skills should also be stressed.

Drill #10: Full Count Game

This is a great game simulation drill that teaches hitters to be aggressive and to hit under pressure. Two teams face off in a 7 inning game with each batter coming into the box with a full count. Action is quick and players must be alert both offensively and defensively. The count may also be changed to 2-2 and each team can be given one out to start the inning.

Drill #11: Hit-n-Stik Bat Speed Drill (Hit-N-Stik Drill)

The drill begins with the drill stik ball on the ground. The holder will raise the ball to the batters numbers. The batter will hit the ball when it gets to certain called spots, eg. knee, belt, numbers. The speed that the ball is raised is varied to make the batter wait sometimes and react quickly at other times. The drill is great for developing concentration, bat speed, and patience. (note-wouldn’t this work better if you lowered the hit-n-stik? like a ball coming in from the pitcher from high to low?)

Drill #12: HIP TWISTS

Hitter places bat (stick, broom handle, etc.) behind back on waistline. With hands gripping the bat from behind, get in stance. Take inward turn, stride and stop. Keeping the bat horizontal to the ground, bend your arms and keep the bat in the space between your biceps and forearms. Look out at where the pitcher would usually be and imagine him winding up and pitching. Rock back as you would in a game, step, and pivot your back foot. Then forcefully pull bat around waist, rolling up on back foot (squishing the bug) with head down, toward imaginary ball. Knees and belly button should then be facing the "pitcher." Go back to normal stance and repeat. Doing this 10-20 times a day programs young hitters to get that lower body working correctly without conscious thought (Muscle Memory).

THE RESULT: By isolating your lower body, you are allowing yourself to work only on your hips and legs. Make sure to get a good "explosion from your back leg while keeping your front leg straight. This is a very good drill to do in the on-deck circle, especially when your facing a particularly hard thrower.

VARIATION:

Set up a tee and practice the drill while actually hitting the ball with the exposed part of the bat. You may not hit the ball at all or you may lightly tap it, but this variation makes it easier to see exactly how much the hips must rotate during a swing.

Drill # 13 WIFFLE GOLF BALL SOFT TOSS:

Do this in groups of 3 or 4, with the coach soft-tossing; one player batting and the rest fielding the balls and returning them to the bucket. Have the hitter take their normal stance, inward turn, and stride, and then hit the wiffle golf balls as you toss them. You can make it more challenging by having your hitters use a 1.5 foot broom handle instead of a bat. This forces the hitter to really "SEE" the ball, by keeping their head (both eyes) down on the ball, in order to make contact. Really emphasize the "head down" aspect by making them keep their heads down, even after completion of a proper follow-through.

Drill #14: CHAIR DRILL

(Good drill for Uppercutters)

Place a batting tee on home plate, with a folding chair behind the tee, with the seat part closest to the tee. Make sure that the tee is just slightly lower than the back of the chair so that the hitter must swing with a slightly downward angle through the ball. If the hitter uppercuts, they will only hit the back of the chair (again, providing instant feedback). Metal chairs seem to be very effective in teaching the proper bat angle during the swing. This drill can be taught relatively easily and is excellent for developing the necessary "line drive" stroke.

Drill #15: ARM ISOLATION DRILL

(Used to develop equal strength in both top and bottom arms.) (Hit-N-Stick drill)

Have batter, using only one arm at a time, take stance, inward turn, stride and full cut at balls off of a tee. Emphasize "staying back" on the ball. Batter will need to choke up a lot, and initially need to place the unused hand under the armpit of the swinging arm for additional support. Take about 20 cuts at a time with each arm, making sure to keep the barrel higher than the hands, and follow through. At first, most players will find their top arm to be stronger; therefore, requiring more reps with the bottom arm. The objective is to reduce the gap between the ability of each arm, ideally becoming equally adept with both. (Many players suffer from a weak lead hand!) You can soft toss to older players.

FIELDING DRILLS & EXERCISES

Quick Release:

This is a great drill for players in T-ball through Farm for developing good hands and a quick release.

1. Have players line up across from a partner about 20 feet apart, either standing up or on one knee.
2. Have them make good throws back and forth as many times an they can while the coach counts down from 30 to zero.
3. The player who does not have the ball at zero wins.
4. Kids will need to catch and release the ball quickly.

Glove Extension:

Proper fielding calls for the glove to be extended out in front of the player. Younger players often hold the glove directly below them when awaiting a ground ball. This drill helps promote the required glove extension.

1. Lay a bat on the ground perpendicular to a line of 4-5 players.
2. The first player in line is 6 feet from the bat in a ready position.
3. The coach is 10 feet from the players.
4. The coach calls 'ready' and rolls a ball toward the bat.
5. The first player in line runs up and gets in a proper fielding position directly behind the bat without touching it. To prevent the ball from rolling into the bat, the player must have his glove extended in front of the bat toward the coach.
6. When the player fields the ball, he sprints to the coach and places it at the feet of the coach and takes his place at the end of the line.

Lateral Movement:

Use this drill to improve lateral movement for handling ground balls and line drives. The drill station group competes to see who can keep the most balls from hitting a fence behind them.

1. Find a fence about 20 feet wide and 6 feet high.
2. One at a time, fielders stand in front of the fence while a batter stands about 40 feet away. The batter can be a coach or other player.
3. The batter hits 10 balls to different spots within the fence area (grounders, line drives).
4. The fielder must stop the balls from hitting the fence.
5. Each fielder is hit 10 balls and the fielder who stops the most wins.

Quick Throws:

A great fielding drill is to time players fielding a ground ball and throwing to first base. Have the players start at a specified position on the infield (a good spot is the edge of the outfield grass or near shortstop position) The coach is positioned near the pitcher's mound and rolls a ball directly at the fielder. The fielder charges the ball, fields it and throws to first base. As the coach releases the ball, he starts a stopwatch. The coach stops the stopwatch when the throw is caught by the first baseman.

There is no time announced if the first baseman can't catch the ball. It is very obvious that not charging, fielding the ball in front, using alligator hands, etc. add a lot of time. The players will compete with each other, but they will also compete against themselves to get a better time. The ball is rolled, so it is easy to field, and players that are not the best fielders are usually not discouraged.